WELCOME TO
Buenos Aires

August 26th, 2022

Our Stay In Buenos Aires, Argentina

After a red-eye flight and a total of 36 hours without sleep – thank you Skyscanner for finding the cheapest yet worst flight times possible, we landed in Buenos Aires. However, we landed without any cash, which couldn’t have been a worse mistake in this country. With insane inflation and a somewhat “legal” black market for cash – not having USD and understanding how to use Western Union or work the black market is the equivalent of drinking non-alcoholic beer (gross). So, the last thing we wanted to do after not sleeping was figure out how to get cash.

But, seeing as paying with a card costs us twice as much as with cash, and we were already extremely over-budget, we didn’t have much of a choice. After a lot of google translate, miles of walking to find an open Western Union, a few slammed doors and being called an “insta-bitch” by my dad, we finally had a 6-inch thick wad of cash that could rival a drug-lord. At that point all I wanted to do was take a nap, but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to meetup with a friend from Bozeman and experience the crazy nightlife of Buenos Aires. 

After partying till sunrise and catching a few hours of sleep, we made the most of our first full day in Buenos Aires and headed to the San Telmo Market. Packed full with hundreds of stalls selling every trinket you could think of, underground areas with the aroma of Argentine food wafting between the hundreds of people waiting in lines and standing at bars, and street performers of every kind, the energy and life was tangible in this area of town. Only held on Sundays, this is an absolute must see on the weekends! 

Drinking Mate:
Mate is a social drink that is a daily part of Argentine life and involves connection, conversation, and pure enjoyment. I had the absolute pleasure of exploring the city and sharing Mate with 2 girls and their father, whom I had met in Panama and lived in Buenos Aires. 

Drinks Anyone?

Partying until sunrise:
Buenos Aires has one of the wildest party scenes that quite literally doesn’t stop until sunrise. I was lucky enough to have a good friend from home living there and he took me out with some of his Argentine buddies and let’s just say my dad was not very proud when I strolled through the door at 7:30 in the morning.

Party Time

San Telmo Market:
The San Telmo Market is a street that stretches for miles, passing through squares, and filled with every trinket, food stand, and live street performer you could think of. Sunday’s are the only time you can visit, and it was our favorite memory from Buenos Aires.

the Market

Our Favorites

Staying with our typical means of accommodation we ended up finding a great 2 bedroom apartment in downtown Recoleta, which was a fantastic place to stay. Surrounded by fantastic restaurants, bars, and things to do it was a very central location and felt extremely safe. Some other areas which are fantastic for first-timers are Palermo and San Telmo!

Where We Stayed

Cucina Paradiso:  Outstanding Italian food located in Comuna 2 - we had an early lunch and wine date here (11:30am) and had an amazing tortellini and gnocchi dish!




 

La Cabrera : Head here for fantastic chorizo sausage, great meat, and amazing wine. Although Don Julio is the most popular high-end steakhouse (we couldn’t get reservations), this is another great option with fantastic service!

The Food

Buenos Aires is filled with restaurants of every flavor, however, it’s of course known for its famous Argentine meat and wine, as well as its Italian food. We had 2 standout meals in this city, one being a fantastic Italian lunch, and the second being an amazing Argentine steakhouse with the best Chorizo sausage we’ve ever had. Just beware that blood sausage is actually sausage casing filled with animal blood… not our favorite memory. Although dad sucked it up and ate every last bite as the Argentine couple next to us watched with eager eyes for our reaction. 

The Other Stuff

Because of the currency exchange we weren’t able to use Uber in Buenos Aires. However Taxis are always bustling around town. Just be sure to use the ones with a light up sign in the front window or on top of the car, or the taxis that are painted yellow & black as those are the official ones. Most do take cards, but it’s best to pay in cash - also easier to negotiate!

Transportation

Currency

Argentina has an absolutely terrible economy and it is unfortunately getting worse by the day. As I mentioned above the best way to get around in Argentina is with cash because you can get a way better exchange rate using the somewhat “legal” black market. If you’re a fluent Spanish speaker, you can head to a street (honestly no idea where this is) where you can bargain for an exchange with USD. However, the easiest way is to use Western Unions, which are located all around the city. The Western Union App is the best way to find the locations, but beware the opening times are not always correct. Getting cash should definitely be the first thing you do when you get the BA, and be prepared to be carrying A LOT of it with you.